Tuesday, June 30, 2015

The Perfect Getaway

Right now I'm sitting out on our deck, reflecting over events of the past week. It is 5:30 in the morning- my favorite time to be outside, and it is beautiful. The gentle sounds of sprinklers, birds, and the occasional distant train fill the air, as well as the sweet scent of tomatoes and basil growing in our hanging planters. The sun is low on the horizon, casting a faint orangish glow on the mountains near our house, and the air is fresh and deceptively cool. It's a good morning. A quiet morning. There is something about this time that makes me feel full of energy and yet calm all at the same time- sort of like the glassy smooth tongue of water leading into a class V rapid. Like I said- this is my favorite time of day.

As far as the blog this week, I don't really even know where to begin. It has been such an amazing, fun filled, emotionally rewarding week that it becomes difficult to describe it in words without falling prey to the over-ambitious use of superlatives and sentimentality. At the same time, there was enough activity packed into such a short time that it could quickly dissolve into a monotonous travelogue of sorts- one thing outdoing the next to such an extent that it all just blends into a jumble of disimpassioned word soup. 

And then there is the problem of length. I am writing a blog post about a trip that deserves to be its own short novel. It just can't be done.

Maybe that's the point though, right? Maybe, no matter how hard we try to save a memory- whether it be through photographs, written words, video, or souvenirs on a shelf-  there is no such thing as an adequate substitute for the real thing. All attempts become as distant echoes to the original. Sort of like sitting on my deck in the morning- it's just something you have to experience to understand. There is no way to fully preserve a feeling, and feelings are sort of a big deal, because they provide the depth to the experience. And unfortunately, feelings fade. Always. For good reason too, because perhaps that is what makes the experience itself so special. 

To describe this last week's experiences then, I will borrow some lines from a famous play. For this week was "Less than a drop in the great blue motion of the sunlit sea. But it seems that some of the drops sparkle- some of them do sparkle! Don't let it be forgot, that once there was a spot, for one brief shining moment that was known as Camelot."

This trip was Camelot. And it was amazing.
____________________________________

Alright. Let's look back and take it day by day (it's easier that way).

Day 1
This day was more of a prologue to our trip than anything. I went to work and Rachel dropped the kids off with my parents. The kids had been looking forward to a week with Grandma and Grandpa for a long time, and they were excited to go. I think that in our next blog post we'll let them tell about their week (or maybe Grandma and Grandpa will do a guest post, if they are willing). When Rachel got home we met at the mall for some last minute shopping, then went home and enjoyed a movie together in a quiet house. We went to bed early that night in anticipation of a busy, early morning.

Day 2
Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes. We started our day early by making a good breakfast, driving the shuttle for the trail, and then stretching out and getting on our bikes. I have to say, this trail is one of the most spectacular bike paths I have ever been on. It was named one of the top 25 trails in the nation in 2012, and runs for 72 miles on a "baby-bottom-smooth" asphalt path with no motorized traffic allowed. Logistics for the day only allowed us to do 50 of these miles on this trip, but each mile was memorable and well worth the effort. As we rode we had some great conversations, as well as personal time for reflection on the breathtaking scenery all around us.

I feel the need to interject a word in here about our conversations. Rachel and I like to talk. A lot. I think that I have mentioned on this blog before that the first date we ever went on involved about 2 hours of dancing and about 6 hours afterwards of talking late into the night. Unbeknownst to us at the time, that date would pretty much typify our future relationship. From politics, science, and philosophy, to kids, ambitions, and emotions, our conversations are probably the main ingredient in the glue that holds everything together for us. I don't see how it could be any other way, nor would I want it to be. Rachel is the best conversational partner I could ask for, and I don't see us ever running out of things to talk about.

Along the ride, we stopped at Old Mission State Park in Cataldo for some interesting history on the early interactions between the natives of the area with the ever-growing masses of white people from the east. This is history that is fraught with conflict and compromise and makes you stop and think about things if you let it.

After the bike ride we got back in the car and drove home to take showers before our evening plans. Then we went out to dinner at the Oval Office- a local establishment where, for the first time in my life, I ate a salad that was every bit as good as the mouthwatering entree it came with. We then hurried downtown to an intimate little theatre (the best kind) where they did a stunning rendition of Broadway's "First Date." This comedy was as insightful as it was funny, and I probably laughed out loud more during this show than any other that I have ever seen. Now, I have been to a lot of plays in a lot of big and fancy venues, and I've got to say that the local talent here is second to none. It was a wonderful way to relax and finish up our evening after a very active day outside.

To sum up the day, it was pretty much perfect.


At the trailhead

Stretching out- getting ready

Look how beautiful! The scenery was nice too ;)


Day 3
For the first time in a long time I slept in on this day (I got up at 6:30). We had a leisurely morning packing the car, and then ate breakfast at a local restaurant called The Dueling Irons. After we ate we drove to our destination: A small trailhead in the Selkirk Mountains.

There is a story that is told about how when God created the world, he needed to make a place for himself where he could stand and look down over all the stuff he made. To this end, he created a huge, granite mountain, and he surrounded this throne with the most beautiful rivers, lakes, and forests that could be made. It would then be easy for him to look down over the vast wilderness that is Northern Idaho and pronounce to the world "It is good." That mountain is identified today as Harrison Peak, and the surrounding Selkirks are still considered by many to be the earthly residence of divine spirits.

Okay. I made that story up. But it could be real. That is how pretty this place is. After a steep hike into the high-alpine country of the Selkirks, Rachel and I pitched our tent next to the crystal waters of Harrison Lake and took in the beauty of nature. Granite slabs covered the landscape, the scent of pine was in the air, and a gentle wind and lapping of the water could be heard from inside our tent. Above the lake was the majestic peak of the same name, and having come this far, I decided to make the short ascent before retiring for the evening.

What a climb! The whole mountain was class 3/4 scrambling and I was in top shape, and things just seemed to flow, and it was amazing. I guess this was just one of those moments that sparkle so much that it defies description altogether. For me, it was sheer euphoria. It was like I was standing still as the ground fell away beneath my feet and my body moved with an efficiency all on its own, and I was just a third party observer to a beautiful melding together of man and mountain and then suddenly, in a single instant and yet hours later, I was standing on top of this mountain and taking in the singular panoramic beauty that is rewarded only to those who set foot on the peak. It was a moment to treasure- almost transcendent. And it was mine.

I love the mountains.
Packed and ready for adventure

At the trailhead
On the trail, with Harrison Peak in the background

If I was a superhero, then granite would be my energy source

Rachel at the lake, with Harrison Peak rising up in the background. This picture does not do it justice.
Our campsite by the lake. We were the only people there.

Pure Ecstasy

Day 4
One of my favorite things about being in the wilderness is waking up early and watching the sun come up. If you haven't ever seen an alpine sunrise, then you are missing out on a beautiful thing. Like describing Mozart to a deaf person, I think it is something that is beyond explanation using mere words, but I'll try my best. The first thing you see, before the sun even peaks over the mountains, is the world transforming into pure gold. Everything- the trees, the rocks, the water...even you, becomes sheer light. There is a word for this phenomenon- Alpenglow. Google it. Better yet- experience it. And then know that during this incredible time, the world is standing still, as if poised on the edge of a cliff. Nature is holding its breath.

And then it falls.

The sun comes up and immediately the world is bathed in the brightest light imaginable that seems to shoot through the fresh mountain air in streams of unfiltered color. It's almost like an abstract piece of art, with everything exaggerated to a degree that seems almost too fantastic to be real. The trees become the greenest shade of green- the water, the bluest of blues- and the mountain, granite, is a palate of light and shadow that dances before your eyes as the sun makes its dramatic ascent into the early-morning sky. A new day has been born.

And then it's over. Most people will be getting out of their beds in a few hours, never suspecting that a miracle has just taken place.

For this particular sunrise I climbed a nearby peak (the one you see over our shoulders in the picture of our tent) and watched until the show ended. I then went back to camp and got things ready for breakfast. We ate, enjoyed some time at the lake, and then loaded our stuff back into our packs for the hike out. What a glorious start to another perfect day.

When we got back to the car we took a quick drive to Priest Lake where we hiked another twelve miles or so on a meandering trail along the lake. The setting was somewhere between that of an alpine forest and a temperate rainforest. There were definitely a lot of pine trees, but there were also a lot of cedars, ferns, and a vast assortment of different fungi. The air felt moist and heavy, and the soil was rich in most places as opposed to the sandy sorts found in the high mountains. It was interesting, and of course, spectacular. Several parts of the trail approached the lake, and during one of these times I couldn't resist any more the impulse to jump into the crystal clear water and enjoy the refreshing coolness wash over my body. This is definitely a lake we will have to return to- maybe to camp via canoe as a family. There are a lot of places to camp here that are accessible only by boat or by pack, and that are well worth the approach. I left with a sense that this was an area that would be discovered and rediscovered over and over again over the course of the next several years.

That night, we drove down to the place that would be our headquarters for the next 5 days- The Inn At The Lake Bed and Breakfast. I'll go more into detail about this place in a little bit. For now, just know that this has become one of our favorite getaways, and is a place that will always have a special spot in our hearts. We watched the sun set over the water, and then we went to bed- tired, but satisfied.

Camelot.

Pumping water in the morning

Hiking at Priest Lake

More hiking

And more hiking. This place was cool.

I'll go more into this in a little bit. Just know that the service and hospitality here are top notch- this is our room when we arrived- rose petals and dark chocolate.

The deck at The Inn

Day 5
Rachel and I first discovered the Inn At The Lake a few years ago when some friends offered to take our kids overnight. Let's just say that we were impressed. Very impressed. For me, there is no resort hotel that I can imagine that can even come close to the amazing experiences we have had staying at this place, and I have been to a few nice resorts in my life. From the hospitality to the customized service to the stunning beauty of the place itself, I cannot think of anything that could be different for a more perfect little getaway.

We started this day out with a gourmet breakfast prepared by Jodi, our hostess. Over breakfast we got to have a nice chat with a guy named James who happens to be a pro skateboarder and who says he is riding across America (literally) to raise support for cancer research. It was interesting talking to him about his adventures and the people he had met and his road to athletic sponsorship and thinking about different lifestyles and dreams that people have. It made me think about how many different kinds of people there are that live around us who each have their own story to tell, who each live a little bit differently than we do and who have different definitions of "the good life," and who are all striving to fulfill those dreams as best they can. I think it's a neat place we live, where such diversity is not only possible, but is celebrated as an essential part of the fabric that holds us together as a society.

After breakfast we got back in our car and went up to Priest Lake again- this time for some single-track mountain biking. Now this is something that neither of us had much experience with (I did a little bit in boy scouts), but which we both enjoyed so much that we are already planning our next trip. It reminded me of the first time I kayaked a "real" river on the the Kern in California- how it was just challenging enough to be fun while at the same time a little bit scary, and how it became something that I immediately knew I could do for a long time.

We rode about 20 miles that afternoon. The highlight reel would include Upper Priest Lake, Rachel bouncing down a rocky area out of control and almost falling off a bridge (you had to be there to understand), a moose that ran out in front of us on the trail, and Hanna Flats cedar grove. Of these things, the last one is what stands out to me the most. Like most forested areas, especially in our modern age, there have been several wildfires over the years that have affected the wilderness of Northern Idaho. These fires can be a good thing, as they recycle nutrients and make room for new life. There is one area though, Hanna Flats, that has remained untouched for hundreds of years, allowing the landscape to develop and mature into a much more complex ecosystem than we see in other places. This area had a certain reverence about it- sort of like the way you feel in a cemetery or an old church or in the mountains early in the morning. More than most places I have been, it felt like we were visitors who were almost intruding on something sacred just by being there. The giant cedars, with moss growing down from their branches and ferns surrounding their trunks seemed to be keeping some great secret of the past. Perhaps this is why people all over the world, from the Native Americans in the west to the legendary builders of the Ark of the Covenant in the east, have used Cedars as a spiritual symbol of purification and wisdom. For me though, I think these great trees are at their most magnificent when left standing in their natural environment.

When we got back from mountain biking we went down to the dock of The Inn and used their kayaks to go on a sunset tour of the lake. We paddled slowly as we gazed at the beautiful houses built along its shoreline. Each one was unique, built for a specific owner, and we had fun imagining what our house might look like if we could design it for ourselves. As expected, we decided in the end that it would not be much different than the one we have (except for the soundproof media room, of course).

We came out of the lake just as the sun was going behind the mountains and enjoyed the rest of the evening from the deck, talking and relaxing late into the night.

Our headquarters
Why stay in a room when you can have a house instead?
Cedar Grove
Kayaking on the lake
Beautiful Sunset


Day 6
One of the first dates Rachel and I went on was to Lagoon- a small theme park in Utah. At that time we ran (sometimes literally) from ride to ride, vowing to do everything there was to do in the park at least once during the day. Since we were each still sort of evaluating one another, and the desire to impress was strong, we made it mandatory to scream on all rollercoasters with an age or height limit. I'm not sure who made this rule, but the gimmick worked to help hide the actual terror that I (and presumably her) sometimes got when peering over the edge of a steep drop and facing certain death. That was also the first time we held hands, and the first time I laid a gentle kiss on the back of Rachel's head as she leaned back against me for one of the rides. It was also the last time Rachel ever referred to my clothes as an "outfit" (I don't wear "outfits," but I appreciated the compliment all the same). That was a great date and I will always have fond memories of it.

On day 6 of our vacation we sort of recreated that date. We went to Silverwood, a small theme park in North Idaho. We held hands, and I made sure to kiss the back of Rachel's head when she snuggled up to me on some of the rides. That's about where the parallels end though. See, we both finally acknowledged to each other that we aren't huge fans of big roller coasters. They now make Rachel sick and they sort of scare the hell out of me. Oh- we both do them from time to time when forced to put on a front, but I guess that as we get older and more secure with ourselves, our need to impress others just becomes pretty much non-existent. Because of this, we had a much different experience this time around. We still did a lot of the rides- the ones that we thought looked fun. And we still screamed and had a great time. But we also enjoyed a lot of the less-adrenaline-inducing forms of entertainment such as the shows and the booths and the food and even the arcade. Wow- talk about a good time! I don't think I have played at an arcade since I was about 12 years old. And wouldn't you know it, but all of the games are still the same. Street Fighter, Area 51, Ninja Turtles, and of course Skee Ball were all there and we spent a lot more money that we should have...but it was so totally worth it.

Also, no trip to Silverwood would be complete without watching Nick Norton's magic show while eating pizza. It is a must. It is also what makes the steep price of admission so worth it. Having won the IAAPA's award for "best production" last year (out of pretty much all the theme/amusement parks in the country), this show is every bit as good as the shows I've been to in Vegas. What makes it better is the intimate setting and the food. It is awesome. Also, I am a big fan of magic- of willing suspension of disbelief in favor of being amazed. Of course we all know it is fake- but that's the point. Magicians don't expect you to actually believe them. We all know that there are better explanations for the things we are seeing than "magic," even if we don't know what those explanations are. But for a brief moment it seems real and it is just really, really cool.

Like many theme parks, there is a water park attached that we went to as well. We swam and visited the attractions and some of the rides and I did NOT do the "Wedgie-tower-of-death-and-lacerated-skin" ride (but I did nearly drown in the wave pool). It was great. A hot day at the park followed by a cool-down in the water. What more could you ask for? Rachel and I are definitely two of a kind.

That night we enjoyed a wonderful romantic dinner on the deck, once again enjoying the perfect sunset over the lake and the sounds of nature. We even saw an eagle swoop down and catch a fish.

What a place. What a day.

The log ride. Her head is very kissable on this one.

Boulder Beach Bay (the water park attached to Silverwood)
Day 7
After such an active day at Silverwood we needed a little break. We had another one of Jodi's amazing creations for breakfast, and then after a leisurely period of preparation we were off for Sandpoint- "A Walk Friendly Community."

We spent the first part of the day doing a little bit of shopping- Rachel is going on a cruise in a couple of months for work and has to update her wardrobe with some fun and formal "cruise attire." I guess that when you are good at what you do, people start paying you to go on vacation.

Around early afternoon we went to see the 3D showing of Inside Out- a super cute cartoon show about the interplay of human emotions, the maturation process and the development of complex emotions, and the impossibility (or at least the undesirability) of ridding ourselves completely of negative emotions. It was extremely well done and held me captive throughout the entire thing. This is a show that I would be happy to have my kids watch over and over again (which is probably inevitable anyway). It also led to some good conversations with Rachel.

When the show was over we found some local tennis courts to work up our appetites. Rachel and I have a standing arrangement on Tuesday nights for a babysitter to watch our kids while we play tennis, and since we missed it earlier this week we figured we could get it in today. At the end of our match, a 9 year old kid came into the courts and asked if he could play. Him and I volleyed for a while and he actually turned out to be half way decent. Good for him.

When we were good and hungry we headed downtown for the Annual Sandpoint Summer Sampler where all the local restaurants brought their best food and drinks out for the public to try. We bought enough tickets to try pretty much everything, and we ate on the lawn of the park while a nice old lady with no social skills whatsoever unwittingly insulted volunteer contestants in a trivia game ("you don't seem to know anything...what DO you know?") When we had had enough and our bellies were full, we went to a nearby local club for a comedy show.

I have to say, while parts of the show were good, the clueless old lady in the park was much funnier overall. We left the show before it was over and went home to enjoy yet another gorgeous evening on the deck.

It was a good, relaxing day.

These 3D glasses are stylin'! Rachel sure was lucky to get a good lookin' guy like me.

Day 8
I woke up early this morning and went down the terraced stairway to the shoreline. The sun was still hiding behind the mountain as I got into the kayak and slipped into the water. The lake was a sheet of glass, black in the early morning light, and utterly smooth save the small ripples from my boat. And then I paddled, fast and hard and strong, but with a smooth rhythm that seemed right for the occasion. I paddled straight out toward the middle of the lake, and it was like riding on liquid silk. Yes, it was that smooth. I paddled until the lake turned golden with the rising sun, by which time I had broken a light sweat and was breathing deeply but steadily. I then stopped, laid back and closed my eyes, and let the small boat coast to a stop. There I was in the middle of the lake, surrounded on all sides by mountains, and I just watched the morning come. It was beautiful. Another day was born.

I could already tell that it was going to be a good day.

When I got back to our house I was greeted with yet another gourmet breakfast, the last one we would have before leaving. We packed up our stuff and thanked our gracious hosts before heading out, back to Coeur d'Alene for the final day of our vacation.

One of the things I love about Coeur d'Alene is the focus the city places on the creative arts. For a town that is relatively small, we have a lot of galleries, performance groups, and public exhibits. It is pretty awesome. Unfortunately, due to our large, noisy, and, mildly destructive family, we have rarely explored these places before. The galleries all close around 5:00pm and this is usually the earliest that Rachel and I are able to get out on dates. For this reason, the Coeur d'Alene "art walk" (yes, that is a thing) was a must-do on our list. And let me tell you, it did not disappoint.

There really isn't much more to say about that. Art, by its very nature, is very subjective. Aesthetics are as relative and as varied as each individual's taste, influenced by culture and constantly changing with time. For me, I prefer pieces that are somewhat abstract and have ambiguous meanings- things where the subject matter is more of an idea like "shifting perspectives" or "loneliness" than it is an object such as, say, a bowl of fruit or a bull elk. It is fascinating to me how, much like with music, a skilled artist is able to use paint, or clay, or chalk, or photography to portray something that is maybe impossible to describe using words alone. It is amazing how poignant a single image can be- how some pictures are worth well more than a measly one thousand words. Whoever said that was not being generous enough, for I have seen some images that are worth volumes.

Besides our exploration of galleries, we also escaped the heat of midday by seeing the movie Jurassic World in our local theatre. It was predictable and violent with big computer generated dinosaurs that ate people. That was to be expected. But it was also thoroughly enjoyable. Since Ms. Kaul's second grade class I have always had a thing for dinosaurs, and it was fantastic to get lost in a world where they came back to life. Even if they did eat people. And that's all I'll say about that.

When it came time for dinner we went to a lovely little cafe'/art gallery we had discovered earlier in the day and enjoyed light appetizers while a local musician filled the air with the soulful sound of the blues. We listened to the music, occasionally striking up conversation with the guitarist between songs, and just let the time pass by knowing that we didn't have anywhere else that we had to be. It was great.

After our appetizers we took the short walk to the lake where we boarded a boat for a sunset cruise. As we traveled, we ate delicious roast beef and Alaskan Salmon provided by the cruise, and watched the sun go down over the mountains. The weather was perfect. Rachel was the absolute definition of class. Memories of the week washed over us, and we each breathed a deep sigh of satisfaction.

Heaven has a lot to live up to. All I can say is that I cannot imagine a better week than the one we have just lived.

It was perfect.


1 comment:

  1. Sounds wonderful. I'm glad you guys could do that. I love the pictures and marvel at your writing abilities. Love Dad.

    ReplyDelete